One of the advantages of using the 12mm bottom construction is that it is thick enough to screw the sides and transoms into. For this reason the bottom panel is cut to fit inside the sides and the transoms. Be careful when using the official plans because those plans show the sides outside the bottom. Also, since the official plans show the thickness of the bottom as 6 mm, you need to add 6mm to the bottom of the bow and stern transoms.

1. The first step is to cut the transoms out of 6mm plywood (See Plan sheets 05, 09 &10/10).
   Use the official plans but remember add 6mm to the bottom to allow for the difference in construction described here. The plans show the amount of chamfer required and in both cases the smallest dimension of the transoms are shown. Mark the centrelines and all lines required. Cut large and plane down later when the framing is glued on. Use the plans to fit the top frames on the transoms.
2. Cut the two temporary moulds (see Appendix 2) to be located at the 500mm and 1500mm positions during construction.
3. Cut the midship frame (Plan sheet 08/10) out of 12mm plywood. In this case make the bottom 6mm shorter in height because the plans show 6mm bottom thickness and the bottom of your boat is 12mm. There is no bevel required on the midship frame.
4. Cut the daggerboard case (Plan sheet 07/10) out of 12mm ply. Use the alternate method of construction where the entire case extends through the bottom. (It's easier to do and it's stronger.) Note that the height of the case at the aft end is 293mm which, with a 12mm bottom and 3mm hog, gives the Measurement Form height of 308.
5. Cut the sides as shown on the expanded drawing. Put all lines on as shown and the lines should be on the inside of the hull to facilitate assembly.
6. Cut the bottom as shown on the expanded drawing, but adding about 5mm at the bow (to be trimmed off later). The dimensions have been adjusted to allow the bottom bevel of the sides to be cut at an equal angle of 8 degrees of bevel. This means the angle will be slightly too shallow near the bow but the epoxy glue will easily fill the joint. Draw the centerline and connect all the lines shown. If you are careful you can cut quite close to the line. Always clean up the saw cut with a sharp plane. The lines will be on the inside of the hull. Take note of the angles of the bottom cut at the bow and remember that the bow and stern transoms are fixed outside the ends of the bottom panel but inside the side panels.
7. Cut and fit the doubling pieces (hog and stringers). It is recommended that you use the minimum dimensions stated in CR 3.2.4.2 (it is easy to add weight with epoxy, difficult to reduce it.)
   Glue them to the bottom panel by using a combination of clamps, weights and screws through the bottom. Use liberal amounts of epoxy since it is very important that the they are securely attached to the bottom: they support the securing pads for the toe straps and mainsheet blocks and the mast step .

It is recommended to dry fit (without glue) all the side panels and transoms to ensure that everything fits. Since the sides determine the curvature of the bottom screw the sides securely to the bottom panel. Slip the transoms into place and plane the angles so that they fit. Epoxy glue is quite tolerant of gaps so perfection in fit up is not necessary. Check that the midship frame fits properly and then stand back at the transom and look down all the centrelines that you drew on the panels. They need to be perfectly lined up indicating that the boat is straight. Once you are certain the boat can be set straight, it's time to do some gluing.

Release about half of the screws from the aft end of the boat to the midship frame on both sides. Glue the joint and put the screws back in to hold while curing.
Fit and glue the aft transom. Put the aft temporary mould in position but try not to get any glue on it. Use wax paper if necessary. Release the forward screws back to the midship frame on both sides and glue.
Screw the panels and midship frame back together and fit the bow transom.
Fit the forward temporary mould to the panels. Remember to use wax paper so you can remove it later. Once all the glue is cured remove all the screws.

The shell is now complete.